The Gilded Edge: Purl

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Purls can be used alone or combined with other metals and silk to create beautiful textures and design lines. They come in many sizes. Below is the sizing for English purls:

Pearl Purl or Jaceron

Jaceron can be stitched in three ways: coiled, uncoiled, or cut into short lengths or beads.

Jaceron can be stitched in three ways: coiled, uncoiled, or cut into short lengths or beads.

Comparison Chart

English size

French size

Pearl Purl Super

Jaceron No. 4

Pearl Purl #1

Jaceron No. 7

Pearl Purl #3

Jaceron No. 10

COILED

Before couching the coils need to be gently stretched. With very little tension, stretch the loops apart slightly. They will spring back a little but will remain ever so slightly apart. You do not want to see spaces between the loops.

Coiled Jaceron is couched at right angles in every other "loop" of the metal with silk sewing thread. When making the stitch it will be necessary to bring the needle up at a slight angle from under the Jaceron and to take the needle down again angled under the metal. As you sew the silk, you want it to slip between the loops of Jaceron. It may be necessary to give a gentle pull so that the sewing thread pops through the coils. This should be a gentle, continuous tension not a tug.

It is possible to turn the smaller sizes of Jaceron but better to cut the larger ones to make sharp turns. It is not possible to return the Jaceron to the original condition if you have bent it in the wrong place, so, make sure you do it exactly where you want it.

Beginning and ending
Start the couching between the first two loops and end with a stitch in the last loop. The ends of this thread are not taken to the back. Make sure that the back stitches from the silk sewing thread are under the Jaceron and not visible.

UNCOILED
Jaceron may be pulled apart creating a less dense and more lacy thread. One should keep in mind that once it has been distorted it cannot be returned to its original condition. Couch the uncoiled Jaceron with right angle stitches in silk sewing thread every other loop.

Because the Jaceron has been pulled apart, the sewing thread will show, unlike when stitching the tightly coiled metal.

Beginning and ending
Start the couching between the first two loops and end with a stitch in the last loop. The ends of this thread are not taken to the back, however make sure that the back stitches from the silk sewing thread are under the Jaceron.

BEADS
Jaceron may be cut into pieces and sewn with silk sewing thread as a bead. For the smaller sizes it may be necessary to use a beading needle to pass through the hollow core. Make sure your stitches are exactly the same size as the bead or, if too short the bead will curl, and if too long it will slide back and forth and the sewing thread will be seen

Interesting patterns can be developed when beads of the same size are used together or in conjunction with surface embroidery stitches.

When cutting Jaceron the beads can go flying and it is best to try to cut them on a piece of felt glued to the bottom inside of a shallow cardboard box. Try to keep your fingers gently on top of the metal thread as it is cut. Remember to use your metal cutting scissors.

Beginning and ending
Make sure that the back stitches from the silk sewing thread are under the Jaceron beads and not visible.

Smooth Purl / Bullion Brilliant Crimped Purl / Faconnee
Rough Purl / Bullion Matte Check Purl / Frieze Brilliant

Cutwork: These soft purls are very delicate and can only be sewn as beads. The term "cutwork" is used in England and refers to the use of cut purl beads. It is very easy to damage these threads so use them cautiously. If they are damaged, they are DAMAGED and cannot be returned to their original condition. As with Jaceron, interesting patterns can be developed when beads of the same size are used together or in conjunction with surface embroidery stitches.

Cut the beads on the felt or velveteen as mentioned in the section above on Jaceron beads. Make sure your stitches are exactly the same size as the bead or, if too short the bead will curl or "crack," and if too long it will slide back and forth and the sewing thread will be seen. "Cracked" is the term used to describe a gap developing in the purl.

Tips for cutting purls:
a) They are soft and easily crushed or distorted. Work with patience.
b) To cut small beads or chips hold you finger over the scissors and purl to keep them from popping.
c) When cutting, try not to get "hooks." These are the ends of the wire that have been pulled out during the cutting process. If you have one, when you start to put it on your needle, hold it around the needle and gently but firmly pinch and rotate the purl using the needle as a mold.
d) On canvas use a sharp needle and hit as many holes as possible.
e) Watch the tail of your sewing thread. Soft purls can become easily distorted if they snag on the tail fuzz.

Beginning and ending
Make sure that the back stitches from the silk sewing thread are under the beads and not visible.